Back to Spain

Our next destination was Toledo, Spain, home of El Greco and one of the best cathedrals in Europe. We followed Rick Steve´s guidebook and ended up at the Hotel La Almazara, just a few miles out of Toledo, high up on a hill overlooking the walled city. The bishop of Toledo built a summer residence on this spot and his friend El Greco stayed here. This is where he received his inspiration for many of his paintings, including "View of Toledo", which was his last. We saw this painting at one of the museums in Toledo. El Greco, which means "The Greek", was born in Greece, studied art in Italy, but lived and painted in Toledo. Being in a hotel in this spot was magical, above the trees, with fresh air, birds and spectacular views of Toledo. This morning there were hot air balloons floating above the city!

The cathedral is almost beyond description. It has an altar covered in gilt, wood carvings, frescoes and statues and side altars everywhere. The best room was the sacistry with about 15 El Grecos, plus paintings by Titian, Rubens, Goya, Valazquez, and Van Dyke.

We love Toledo! We walked into the city across the Ponte San Marcos bridge, took a city bus up the hill and found the Mariano Zamorano Knife Shop described in the tour book. Mariano himself gave us a tour of the shop and we saw knives being made. Gene bought one. Next was the cathedral tour, then a lunch of suckling pig and lamb and a kiss on the cheek from the owner of the restaurant, Jesus. Next the central plaza and back on a bus to the Museo Victorio Macho, a sculptor. The "View of Toledo" by El Greco was on display here as his museum is under restoration.

We were now experiencing TE, tourisimo exhaustion, so it was back to the hotel to crash. We purchased cheese and fruit which we ate on the patio of our room and watched the sun set over Toledo. A perfect day!