Friday, May 30, 2008

Back to Spain

Our next destination was Toledo, Spain, home of El Greco and one of the best cathedrals in Europe. We followed Rick Steve´s guidebook and ended up at the Hotel La Almazara, just a few miles out of Toledo, high up on a hill overlooking the walled city. The bishop of Toledo built a summer residence on this spot and his friend El Greco stayed here. This is where he received his inspiration for many of his paintings, including "View of Toledo", which was his last. We saw this painting at one of the museums in Toledo. El Greco, which means "The Greek", was born in Greece, studied art in Italy, but lived and painted in Toledo. Being in a hotel in this spot was magical, above the trees, with fresh air, birds and spectacular views of Toledo. This morning there were hot air balloons floating above the city!

The cathedral is almost beyond description. It has an altar covered in gilt, wood carvings, frescoes and statues and side altars everywhere. The best room was the sacistry with about 15 El Grecos, plus paintings by Titian, Rubens, Goya, Valazquez, and Van Dyke.

We love Toledo! We walked into the city across the Ponte San Marcos bridge, took a city bus up the hill and found the Mariano Zamorano Knife Shop described in the tour book. Mariano himself gave us a tour of the shop and we saw knives being made. Gene bought one. Next was the cathedral tour, then a lunch of suckling pig and lamb and a kiss on the cheek from the owner of the restaurant, Jesus. Next the central plaza and back on a bus to the Museo Victorio Macho, a sculptor. The "View of Toledo" by El Greco was on display here as his museum is under restoration.

We were now experiencing TE, tourisimo exhaustion, so it was back to the hotel to crash. We purchased cheese and fruit which we ate on the patio of our room and watched the sun set over Toledo. A perfect day!

Highlights of Portugal

Drove into Lisbon from southern Portugal and only went down a few wrong roads. Eventualy found our hotel, a very modern highrise on the coast in Estoril. Our room was small, but upscale and brand new.

The next day we ventured out in the car and stopped on the cliff edge at the westernmost point in Europe, Cabo da Roca, then inland toward Sintra. Stopped in the forest in the Siera de Sintra at the Convento dos Capuchos, an abandoned cluster of buildings founded by friars in the 1700s. It was nestled among moss covered rocks. Some of the rooms still had frescoes, hand painted tiles and cork covered walls. The individual cells were no bigger than 6 X 8 feet with doors too small for me to enter. I just peeked in. It was here that I chatted with a German gentleman who knew the town where my mother´s ancestors came from. Small world. There were only three tourists on the whole property at the time. Had a great lunch at a taverna up a hill on a small lane in Sintra, known for the beautiful palaces that were summer residences for royalty and the wealthy. The town is picture postcard perfect, with flowers and manicured gardens. That evening we wento to the Casino in Sintra, one of Europe´s largest.

Instead of trying to drive into Lisbon, we took a tour bus. We were picked up at our hotel and driven into town to join the larger group on a larger bus. Saw the cathedral in Belem (Bethlehem in English), the Alfama with its narrow streets and exposed Moorish wall circa 1400, a museum with royal coaches, tasted port wine, and saw more monuments than I can remember. The King of Norway was in town and his yacht was anchored near the marina. He had placed flowers at a poet´s tomb in the cathedral in Belem (which all visiting royals and heads of state do). There is a tomb in the cathedral of Vasco da Gama, who opened routes to India, the beginning of Portugals` wealth.

Flemenco in Spain

We took a tour with a small group of ten people from the base in Rota into Jerez, Spain, the night before we left for Portugal. Flemenco originated in this corner of Spain and the performance, as well as the meal, was very authentic . . . meaning dynamic and emotional. We loved it. I also love the sangria!

Sherry also originated here, and there are enormous bodegas or wine cellars in and around Jerez. The restaurant where we saw Flamenco had once been a wine storage bldg and was now a taverna.

Our drive on Saturday morning into Portugal was through miles and miles of sunflower fields, grape vines, wheat fields and citrus and olive groves. There´s still a lot of wide open spaces in Spain.

Gypsies in Portugal

I´m beginning to feel like a gypsy. When I wake up in the morning, I have to remember what town I´m in. Then I lay quietly and think about all we´ve seen the day before. Yesterday in southern Portgal we saw gypsies. Real, live, movin´ down the road to who knows where gypsies. Each had a wagon filled with all their wordly goods pulled by a single horse. They were plodding along, half on, half off, the road. It was beginning to rain, and one wagon pulled under a tree for shelter. Don´t know if I could live that way. It makes the hotels where we stay (and the RV) feel luxurious indeed.

On the other side of the coin, we drove thru a development of golf courses, 5 star hotels and luxury homes . . . all carved out of coastal habitat abutting a nature preserve. We were following a map in a brochure and looking for nesting white storks, which we did find. Five nests, all occupied, some feeding their young. Imagine having stork nests across the pond from your backyard.

The southern coast of Portugal is a flyway for birds migrating between Europe and Africa. It also has beautiful beaches and spectacular rock formations. We stayed in Lagos and drove to Ponta de Piedras (Rocky Point). 200 feet below the cliff edge were caves, arches and crystal clear water. Pongas waited in the cove to take tourists on rides into the grottos. It must be much like the Blue Lagoon of Italy. Just breathtaking. I walked down the long stairway to the cove while Gene waited up on top.

Friday, May 23, 2008

On to Portugal

We leave in the morning (Saturday) for Portugal. Plan to stay on the southern coast the first night, then we have reservations near on the coast near Lisbon for three nights in a highrise apartment. Per Joe and Francesca's suggestion, we'll make sure we get to Sintra! We're having fun!

First Few Days in Spain

After sleeping late to get our time clocks in sync, we spent our first day exploring Rota, a seaport on the SW coast of Spain. This is a deep water harbor, and our Navy has an agreement with Spain for its use and that of the base where we are staying. We spend American dollars on the base and euros in the town of Rota. Rota has narrow streets, a moorish castle, cathedral and small boat harbor. Liberty Call would fit just fine here. Had our first tapas (appetizers) at a Rota bar on Tues. That's about all the energy we had before it was back to the room for a nap.

On Wednesday we took the ferry across the bay to the city of Cadiz. Cadiz occupies a peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic. This spit of land has been occupied by Phoenicians, Romans, Moors and Spaniards. We hopped aboard a topless, two-decker bus and had a tour, with English translation via earplugs, thru the town. After the tour, I did the walking tour and returned to the Roman Theatre, a ruin that has only been discovered in the past few years. I'm beginning to get the feel of Europe and its long history of various cultures occupying the same ground. Had our first paella (saffron rice with seafood) that is a typical dish here.

On Thursday our real adventure began. We took off in our rental car for a self-guided, White Hill Towns tour using Rick Steves' Spain 2008 as our guide. We got to the first destination just fine. Ronda is high up in the mountains, with the old Moorish town on one side of a 360' deep gorge and the new town on the other. A bridge built in 1750 (the new bridge) spans the deep, narrow gorge and is a spectacular sight. The old Arab bridge is upstream. The scenery here, as in all of the white towns, is awesome.

We drove thru the Sierra de Grazelema Natural Park to get to the next town, Grazelema. The blacktopped road twisted thru the mountains and we only saw a few other cars the entire way. Our last stop was in Zahara, where we had Spanish wine, aged cheese, and lamb chops for dinner. The restaurant overlooked green hills, orchards and mountains beyond where hang gliders floated the entire time.

Now the real adventure. We've learned a few lessons. Don't travel in a strange place after dark. Thought we'd figured this out in Boston when we got lost there. Well, we got lost again going back to Rota. Spent about an hour circling thru a city before we made it out the other side. The other lesson: I can't read the roundabout signs fast enough . . . especially when they are hidden behind a tree or other obstacle. We circled a few round abouts more than once trying to figure out where to turn. We didn't get home until after midnight, just about when American Idol was coming on.

We are taking today off to do laundry and relax. Tonight we're going with a group from the base back to the town we got lost in. We'll have tapas, dinner, drinks and see authentic Flemenco . . . which originated in this part of Spain. Someone else is driving!

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Hola from Rota, Spain!

I am writingthis at 0100 (1:00 a.m.) and we have been in the air 4.5 hours. Our ETA to Rota, Spain is 0400 EST. Spain uses the 24-hour clock (1 to 24, not 1-12) so I may as well start now. It's also cool military lingo.

How many people can say they have flown in a C-5 cargo plane? How many would want to? Right now I'm thinking it's a great experience, and it will be even greater when we are safely on the ground in Rota.

There are 73 seats availabl on this flight and only 22 passengers wanting to fly---5 children and 17 adults. After checking IDs and pasports, we went thru a security check just like Sky Harbor. Shoes off, pockets emptied, etc. Everything familiar stopped there. While in the bording holding area, we rceived instructions: no cameras, hats off, grab earplugs on your way out the door. Yes, earplugs. We'd soon learn why.

We were herded onto a blue bus, the kind you deliver kids to school in, then headed out across the runway to a row of gigantic, 747-sized, charcoal grey, monster planes with 4 jet engines mounted 2 and 2 under the wings. The engines were warming up. We put in our earplugs.

We watched as the tail of the plane slowly opened like giant alligator jaws. A platform dropped even lower to receive our luggage being delivered on a flat bed truck. The suitcases had been stacked on a pallet and the entire thing was shrink-wrapped. The flat bed scissored up to meet the platform and a conveyor belt slid the pallet into the plane.

Now to get the more precious cargo aboard. . . us! There was one tiny opening cut out of the solid chunk of grey about two stories above the tarmack, our entry door. Another truck with a set of stairs mounted on its back slowly inched its way to the side of the jet and we were instructed to board. Backpacks on and up we went two flights and found our seats.

Here similarities to commercial flying prevailed. Seats were 3 and 3 with a aisle down the middle. Gene and I picked a row and kept an empty seat between us. Wish now we'd each taken a row. Most of the people are now sound asleep, stretched out over three seats each. I slept from about 2200 to 0100 and hope after I jot down these thoughts I can go back to sleep for a bit. By the way, the seats are facing the REAR of the plane and there are NO windows. There is a big grate on the floor of the galley and you can see cargo down below. Everyone wore their earplugs the entire trip.

Food: We purchased a box lunch for $3.35 each consisting of turkey and cheese snadwich on white Rainbow-type bread, chips, soda, granola bar, bottled water, M&Ms and an apple. They handed out juice and more granola bars. I have most of the food left.

The flight was free, but I'd have paid full fare for the experience!

. . .

It's now 2200 Rota time, we've had a nap, shower, rented a car, drove into Rota and found a tapas bar, then drove around thru narrow streets and along the waterfront. Now it's back to the BOQ (Bachelor Officers Quarters) where we have a brand new room with sitting area and separate bedroom and bath . . . all for $35/night. This is the start of something great!

Monday, May 19, 2008

Crossing Our Fingers in Dover

Arrived in Dover today, Monday, about noon. We left Charleston on Sunday after learning that there was no chance of getting a flight out for at least two or three days. There are more flights out of Dover, so we put the RV in storage and drove the Saturn up I-95, spent the night north of Richmond, VA, and drove thru DC and into Delaware today. Had delicious crabbcakes for lunch and spotted some birdwatchers on the beach who were counting banded ruddy turnstones and other shorebirds. The shorebirds here are feasting on horseshoe crabb eggs as they migrate north.

There were two flights to Rota, Spain, today, but one got cancelled. The remaining flight has 73 seats, and we will find out in about an hour if we are on it. If not, there are three flights to Rota tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed that we are on the one today . . . or in worse case, tomorrow.

When we get back here after our vacation in Spain and Portugal, we plan to spend some time exploring the east coast from Virginia back down to Charleston. Gene wanted to beeline it to Dover, so we couldn't take the "scenic" route. And when you take the interstate, all you see is highway, semis and trees. Yawn.

Friday, May 16, 2008

We're Now in Georgia!

We left Pensacola, today (Friday morning) and headed east on I-10 toward Jacksonville. It started to rain shortly after we left, and by late morning it was raining so hard at times that we could barely see. After seeing several accidents, one car upside down, another skidded off the road, and a UPS truck on its side (Big Brown went down) with packages all over the road, we decided to pull into a rest area and take a nap.

We are now camped in a peaceful spot next to a pond with frogs croaking and a cool, gentle breeze. We'll sleep good tonight. The camp in located at the Trident Submarine base at King's Point in Georgia, just north of the Florida border. Tomorrow should be a half day drive to Charleston, South Carolina, where we will check on flights to Europe. The computer is showing two flights on Sunday; one to Rota, Spain, and another to Brussels. Hopefully, we'll be on one of them!

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

A Submariner's Story


One of the Bashaw reunion attendees, Lee, served on the submarine during WWII. Lee is now in his 80's and loves to tell stories of his time aboard the ship. While on watch in the South China Sea during a heavy fog, he could not even see the bow of the sub. Slowly the fog lifted, and right beside the Bashaw, not more than 30 or 40 feet away, loomed the side of a Japanese destroyer. They were so close, that the destroyer could not angle its guns low enough to get a shot at the Bashaw.

The photo above of the submarine lookout was taken at the museum in Mobile. It really makes one proud to be visting with veterans who have served our country and helped preserve our freedom.

The Candidates


Took this photo at the ship museum in Mobile, AL. Still confused about who gets my vote!

Bashaw Reunion in Pensacola, Florida





Gene in the Ward Room of the USS Alabama viewing the ship's silver presented by the State of Alabama when the battleship was commissioned. The photo above it is inside the USS Drum, a WWII submarine we toured.

Gene had command of the submarine USS Bashaw from 1966 to 1968, and we've had a great time visiting with old friends. Yesterday, the group took a bus to Mobile, Alabama, where we toured the Alabama, a battleship, and the USS Drum. The Drum is currently being refurbished as it was during WWII.

This morning I took a walk near the beach to check out the birds . . . and was surprised by some big birds . . . the Blue Angels! They were practicing right over my head in various formations. It was pretty exciting AND LOUD. It scared up quite a few birds, too. Saw cardinals, eastern bluebirds, Eastern towhee, a brown thrasher, Carolina wrens, and Carolina chicadees.

This afternoon we'll have lunch at the Navy Air Museum (right across the street from the RV park), golf 9 holes with our friends the Dafoes and have seafood for dinner. Tomorrow we tour historic Pensacola. We plan to leave on Friday for Charleston, SC, and hopefully be in Europe by Monday or Tuesday.

The White Squirrel



Once upon a time, in the backwoods near Sopchoppy, Florida, there lived the seldom seen albino or, as the locals call it, "white squirrel". We were determined to seek one out. We staked out our spot in the forest. We swatted mosquitoes. We waited. Finally, the elusive critter appeared. I raised my camera . . . it darted! I aimed again, zoomed in, clicked, and got the shot!

Actually, we were just driving through the state park south of Sopchoppy where we were camped when we stopped at a grassy area to look at the Ochlockonee river. "Is that what I think it is," said Gene. "A white squirrel?" When we got back to the RV, we read through the camp brochure, and sure enough, it stated: "Patient park visitors may be rewarded with a glimpse of white squirrels, a rare color variation of the Eastern grey squirrel."

We would not have believed it unless we had seen it. But, seeing is believing. And we saw a white squirrel! We're sending a photo to the park service for their brochure.

P.S. We also saw a two-headed turtle in an aquarium at Homasassa Springs State Park. Can't wait to get to Georgia.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Manatees


Florida has many great state parks, and one of them at Homasassa Springs, protects manatees that can be viewed all year long. We stopped there and took a boat ride up the creek to the park entrance, seeing birds and turtles along the way. They have an underwater viewing room so you can watch the manatees in an aquarium setting.

Manatees need warm water, so they come upstream to warm springs every winter. The springs are a constant 72 degrees. They are so ugly they're cute. People here love them. We've seen several manatee shaped mailboxes . . . quite an oddity. We also saw manatees at our next campsite. We were parked next to a pond near the Suwanee River and two manatees were feeding right outside the RV window. Quite a show!

Everglades




We can check one more thing off our "Bucket List" . . . an airboat ride through the Everglades. It reminded us of the jungle ride in the dinghy in Tenecatita, Mexico. We rode through tunnels of mangrove swamps, then broke out into the grass covered swamp. We were issued hearing protection because these boats are soooooo noisy! But fast, too. The name of the company we used was "Speedy Johnson's".

The Everglades used to be a 50-mile wide, slow moving river. The elevation drops only one or two inches a mile all the way from Lake Okachobee to the Gulf of Mexico. Today, that river is interrupted by dikes and diversion canals. There are lots of herons, egrets, osprey, ducks, turtle and alligators. Alligators are protected. They were down to about 100,000 but are now over 1,000,000. Gene says, "Why would you want to protect alligators? Have you ever seen one up close?" We've seen quite a few already. Some too close.

There were signs along the road saying : Panther Crossing Next 5 Miles. We never saw any of those. They are similar to Arizona's mountain lions. Light in color, but smaller.



One fun stop was the Smallwood Store south of Everglades City. It was built in the 1890's before there were roads into this swampy, 10,000 islands area. You had to come by boat to get your supplies. It was built up on stilts and operated until 1974 and had a US Post Office. Today it is a museum, complete with porch overlooking the water. We watched schools of fish swim by chased by a shark . . . or so said the clerk.

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Key West-Land's End






Hemmingway Home has lots of cats . . . 47!

We are now in Key West, as far south in the U.S. as you can get. The weather here is warm and balmy, with gentle breezes. And it is still cool at night. Perfect.

Hemmingway, President Harry Truman and Jimmy Buffet frequented Key West, and we visited all the important spots from the Little White House, where Harry Truman spent 175 days of his presidency, to Buffet's Margueritaville.

The highlight of our stay here (we are camped at the Navy FamCamp), was our 70 mile catamaran ride over smooth, aqua water to Dry Tortugas National Park. It's just a little spit of land where the U.S. built Fort Jefferson in the mid 1800's. The fort's purpose was to protect the U.S. from pirates, rum runners and other invaders. If Cuban refugees are lucky enough to make land here, they are shipped off to Miami and processed thru immigration. Most, however, are intercepted at sea and sent back to Cuba, just 90 miles away.

The Dry Tortugas are just a few islets with no water and are the nesting ground for masked boobies, terns, frigate birds and three species of turtles. We didn't see any turtles on our snorkel around the fort. The brick, hexagon-shaped structure occupies about 95% of the Garden Key. Surprisingly, there were hawks, warblers, American redstarts and other migratory birds to view.

Today we leave for the Everglades and alligator territory.

Computer Problems

Have been unable to connect to the internet, but we just reinstalled the wireless software and are up and running again. Argh!

Spent five days in Gainsville, FL with our friends Sandy and Jim Dafoe, Gene's Navy buddy, at their beautiful home. They showed us around the U of Florida, took us to a play, the Butterfly Rainforest and a few of the springs. Big highlight: baby foxes at one of the local parks.

We are off to Key West!